Lingerie is a term for women's fashion undergarments. It derives from the
French word 'lin' for linen.[1] While the term in the French language applies to
all undergarments for either sex, in English it is applied only to those women's
undergarments designed to be visually appealing or erotic, typically
incorporating materials such as Lycra, nylon (nylon tricot), polyester, satin,
lace and/or silk and not applied to functional cotton undergarments.
The concept of lingerie being visually appealing is relatively recent. Up
through the first half of the 20th century women selected underwear for three
major purposes: to alter their shape (first with corsets and later with girdles
or bras), for reasons of hygiene, or for modesty. Women's underwear was often
very large and bulky. As the 20th century progressed underwear became smaller
and more form fitting. In the 1960s 'controversial' lingerie manufacturers such
as Frederick's of Hollywood begin to glamorize lingerie and the idea of lingerie
having a sexual appeal slowly developed.
The lingerie industry has expanded in the 21st century with designs that double
as outerwear. The French refer to this as 'dessous-dessus' which basically means
innerwear as outerwear. The boutique Faire Frou Frou, which is an antiquated
phrase meaning "show it off", heralds this philosophy by categorizing lingerie
as an accessory with details such as straps and lace trim that should be layered
and shown as part of one's outerwear.
Pronunciation
The word is often pronounced, in approximation of the French original (/lɛ̃ʒʀi/),
as [ˌlɑn(d)ʒəˈɹi]. Nonetheless, alternatives like [ˈlæn(d)ʒəˌɹeɪ], are also
common. The Oxford English Reference Dictionary gives only /ˈlɒnʒeɹi/.
Typology
* Babydoll, a short nightgown or negligee intended as nightwear for women.
* Basque, a tight, form-fitting bodice or coat
* Bedjacket, worn over a nightgown or negligee for warmth and modesty.
* Blanket sleeper
* Bloomers, underpants with short legs.
* Bodystocking, a unitard.
* Bodysuit, a leotard-like undergarment, usually skintight or formfitting.
* Bodice, covers the body from the neck to the waist.
* Boy shorts, a style of panties, so named for their resemblance to male shorts.
* Brassiere
* Bustier
* Camisole, sleeveless and tight fitting, covering the top part of the body
* Camiknickers, camisole and knickers joined as one garment
* Cami Shorts
* Chemise
* Corset by bone, a bodice worn to mold and shape the torso.
* Corselet = Brassiere + Girdle
* Corsage by elastic, covering the body from the neck to the waist, similar to a
corset.
Women's panties or knickers
Women's panties or knickers
* Drawers a pant-like garment worn during the 19th century for modesty and
warmth. Some drawers were split-leg, in that the crotch seam was left open.
* French maid, a form of ladies' fantasywear
* G-String/Thong, a narrow piece of cloth passes between the buttocks, and is
attached to a band around the hips, worn as a bikini bottom or as underwear by
both men and women.
* Garter
* Garter belt, used to keep stockings up
* Girdle, resembles a tight pair of athletic shorts
* Granny panties
* Hosiery
* Jersey nightshirt - A long, loose T-shirt made of cotton, polyester, nylon or
diaphanous chiffon that can be worn like a Babydoll.
Woman wearing pantyhose.
* Knickers (British for underpants)
* Leotard
* Merry widow
* Naughty & Nice
* Negligee
* Nightgown or Nightie, a loosely hanging item of nightwear, may vary from
hip-length (babydoll) to floor-length (peignoir).
* Nightshirt
* Panties
* Peignoir
* Petticoat
* Pettipants
* Robe
* Slip (Full slip and Half slip / Underskirt)
* Spanky-Pants, "Spankies" (color-coordinated underpants worn by cheerleaders)
* Stockings
* Stringbody
* Suspender belt (British), aka Garter belt (US)
* Tanga
* Tap Pants
* Teddy
* Undergarment
* Unitard One piece, skin tight garment
Glossary
* sexy lingerie is the kind of underwear, sleepwear, and other items of intimate apparel worn by women
* sexy costume is a style of dress, including accessories and hairdos, esp. that peculiar to a nation, region, group, or historical period.
* sexy underwear is a kind of clothing worn next to the skin under outer clothes.
* sexy pajama is a loose-fitting garment consisting of trousers and a jacket, worn for sleeping or lounging.
* sexy boxer or boxer shorts, men's loose-fitting undershorts with an elastic waistband.
* sexy babydoll, often, baby dolls. Also called baby doll nightgown
* sexy corset, sometimes, corsets, a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, esp. by women, to shape and support the body.
* sexy catsuit is a tight-fitting one-piece garment for women usually made of leather or a synthetic fabric such as spandex and covering the torso, legs, and sometimes the arms.
* sexy bodysuit, or body, is a leotard-like garment that may or may not have snaps at the crotch.
* sexy bodystocking is an article of lingerie, similar to a leotard or a catsuit.
* sexy funwear is a kind of wear, clothing, or costume for fun or games.
* sexy hosiery describes tight-fitting garments worn directly on the feet and legs.
* sexy bra ( brassiere) is an article of clothing that covers, supports, and elevates the breasts.
* sexy panty is a kind of short underpants for women or children (usually used in the plural)
* sexy clubwear is a kind of fashion design, primarily in ready-to-wear lines, boyfriend is any style for women's clothing that was modified from a corresponding men's garment.
* sexy bustier (alternately bustier re) is an article of clothing for women, which is form-fitting and is traditionally worn as lingerie.
* sexy robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. A robe is distinguished from a cape or cloak by the fact that it usually has sleeves.
* sexy gown is a loose outer garment from knee- to full-length worn by men and women and gown was applied to any woman's garment consisting of a bodice and attached skirt.
* sexy teddy is a form of bodysuit-like lingerie, often worn in the boudoir.
* sexy teddiettes is a loose-fitting teddy designed as sleepwear. Sleep teddies tend to use simpler materials and styles than teddies designed for visual appeal.
* sexy chemise can refer to the classic smock or shift, or else can refer to certain modern types of women's undergarments and dresses.
* sexy pantyhose (also called tights) are sheer, close fitting coverings of the body from the waist to the feet, most frequently worn by women.
* sexy garters are items of clothing, used to keep stockings up.
* sexy girdle originally meant a belt (or metaphorically speaking, something which confines or encloses, as in Tolkien's Girdle of Melian).
* sexy halter top is a kind of woman's top, secured behind the neck and across the back, leaving the arms, shoulders, upperback, and often the midriff bare.
* sexy knickers is a word for women's undergarments and there are now many names for the undergarments that previously have been called knickers, such as panties, thongs, g-strings, briefs, shorts, tangas, etc.
* sexy g-string (alternatively gee-string or gee string) is a type of thong, a narrow piece of cloth, leather, or plastic that covers or holds the genitals, passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a band around the hips, worn as swimwear or underwear by
* sexy nightwear, also called "sleepwear", "nightclothes", or "nightdress", is clothing designed to be worn while sleeping. Nightwear usage is seasonal, i.e. different weights for different seasons or it is only worn in winter.
* sexy basque is an item of women's historical apparel.
* sexy corsetry is craft of making corsets and corset-like garments and accessories most of which incorporate stays.
* sexy sleepwear is a kind of clothes, such as pajamas or a nightgown, worn in bed. Also called nightdress, nightwear, sleepwear
* sexy briefs are a type of short, tight Y-shaped underwear and swimwear, as opposed to styles where the material extends down the legs.
* sexy bikini a very brief, close-fitting, two-piece bathing suit for women or girls.
* sexy thong is a strip of material, esp. of leather or hide, used to fasten or secure something.
The term costume can refer to wardrobe and dress in general, or to the
distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period. Costume may
also refer to the artistic arrangement of accessories in a picture, statue,
poem, or play, appropriate to the time, place, or other circumstances
represented or described, or to a particular style of clothing worn to portray
the wearer as a character or type of character other than their regular persona
at a social event such as a masquerade, a fancy dress party or in an artistic
theatrical performance.
Contents
[hide]
* 1 National costume
* 2 Holidays and festivals
* 3 Children
* 4 Mascots
* 5 Drawings of costumes from the past
* 6 See also
* 7 External links
National costume
National costume or regional costume expresses local (or exiled) identity and
emphasises a culture's unique attributes. It is often a source of national
pride. Examples of such are a Scotsman in a kilt or a Japanese person in a
kimono.
Costumes for the ballroom.
Costumes for the ballroom.
Holidays and festivals
The wearing of costumes has become an important part of such holidays and
festivals as Mardi Gras and Halloween (see Halloween costume for more
information), and (to a lesser extent) people may also wear costumes in
conjunction with other holidays, such as Christmas and Easter. Mardi Gras
costumes usually take the form of jesters and other fantasy characters, while
Halloween costumes traditionally take the form of supernatural creatures such as
ghosts, vampires, pop culture icons and angels. Christmas and Easter costumes
typically portray mythical characters such as Santa Claus (by donning a santa
suit and beard) or the Easter Bunny by putting on an animal costume. Costumes
may serve to portray various other characters during secular holidays, such as
an Uncle Sam costume worn on the Independence day for example.
Children
Costumes also serve as an avenue for children to explore and roleplay. Children
can dress up in various forms; for example characters from history or fiction
like pirates, princesses or cowboys, common jobs like nurses or police officers,
or animals such as those seen in zoos or farms.
Mascots
Another very popular situation where costumes are employed are for sporting
events, where people dressed as their team's representative mascot help the club
or team rally round their team's cause. Animal costumes which are visually very
similar to mascot costumes are also popular among the members of the furry
fandom where they are referred to as funsuits.
Typology
* bridal lingerie is the kind of underwear, sleepwear, and other items of intimate apparel worn by women
* bridal costume is a style of dress, including accessories and hairdos, esp. that peculiar to a nation, region, group, or historical period.
* bridal underwear is a kind of clothing worn next to the skin under outer clothes.
* bridal pajama is a loose-fitting garment consisting of trousers and a jacket, worn for sleeping or lounging. Often used in the plural.
* bridal boxer or boxer shorts, men's loose-fitting undershorts with an elastic waistband.
* bridal babydoll, often, baby dolls. Also called baby doll nightgown, baby doll pajamas. a garment for women or girls consisting of a hip-length top of delicate fabric often decorated with ruffles, ribbons, or lace, with a matching panty, worn for sleeping.
* bridal corset, sometimes, corsets, a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, esp. by women, to shape and support the body.
* bridal catsuit is a tight-fitting one-piece garment for women usually made of leather or a synthetic fabric such as spandex and covering the torso, legs, and sometimes the arms.
* bridal bodysuit, or body, is a leotard-like garment that may or may not have snaps at the crotch. It is usually skintight or formfitting and can have sleeves of any length or be made like a tank top. There are bodysuits for both females and males,
* bridal bodystocking is an article of lingerie, similar to a leotard or a catsuit. It is much the same thing as a unitard, but the term bodystocking is likely to be preferred when the garment is worn as an underlayer in cold weather. It usually has long legs, but it may have long, short, or no sleeves. It is usually made from a sheer fabric similar to those used for stockings and tights, or from fishnet material. Some people consider bodystockings to be an erotic garment.
* bridal funwear is a kind of wear, clothing, or costume for fun or games
* bridal hosiery describes tight-fitting garments worn directly on the feet and legs. Most are made by knitting methods. Modern hosiery is usually tight-fitting by virtue of stretchy fabrics and meshes. Older forms include binding to achieve a tight fit. Due to its close fit, most hosiery can be worn as an undergarment, but it is more commonly worn as a combined under/outer garment.
* bridal bra ( brassiere) is an article of clothing that covers, supports, and elevates the breasts. The bra is considered a foundation garment, as well as an undergarment, because of its role in shaping the wearer's figure. It was originally developed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to replace the corset, and has now become, in many parts of the world, the most popular form of undergarment for the upper body, although camisoles and chemises are becoming more popular.
* bridal panty is a kind of short underpants for women or children (usually used in the plural)
* bridal clubwear is a kind of fashion design, primarily in ready-to-wear lines, boyfriend is any style for women's clothing that was modified from a corresponding men's garment. Examples include boyfriend jackets and boyfriend jeans, which are more unisex in appearance than most women's jackets or pants while they are still designed for the female form.
* bridal bustier (alternately bustier re) is an article of clothing for women, which is form-fitting and is traditionally worn as lingerie. It looks somewhat like a Basque, but a bustier is shorter. It reaches down only to the ribs or the waist and has a different function: its primary purpose is to push up the bustier by tightening against the upper midriff and forcing the breasts to move up, while gently shaping the waist. These days, it is often made with mesh panels rather than boning. The bustier is a multi-purpose garment and doubles up as a push-up bra for inner wear and as a camisole for outer wear. The bustier can also be worn as a half-slip under diaphanous upper garments if a bold display of the midriff is not desired. In modern days, women wear a bustier as an undergarment/push up bra in the occasion that their dress or outer-wear has a low-back.
* bridal robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. A robe is distinguished from a cape or cloak by the fact that it usually has sleeves. The English word robe is borrowed from French, although in French it typically refers to a woman's dress. There are various types of robes, including:
* bridal gown (medieval Latin gunna) is a (usually) loose outer garment from knee- to full-length worn by men and women in Europe from the early Middle Ages to the seventeenth century (and continuing today in certain professions); later, gown was applied to any woman's garment consisting of a bodice and attached skirt.
* bridal teddy is a form of bodysuit-like lingerie, often worn in the boudoir. By definition, a teddy is an undergarment which combines a camisole and panty in one piece. Unlike a bodysuit, it is typically looser and more sheer, and may be designed to slip off from the shoulders, rather than to open at the crotch. The teddy is normally worn for the seductive look, rather than practical reasons.
* bridal teddiettes is a loose-fitting teddy designed as sleepwear. Sleep teddies tend to use simpler materials and styles than teddies designed for visual appeal.
* bridal chemise can refer to the classic smock or shift, or else can refer to certain modern types of women's undergarments and dresses. In the classical usage it is a simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils, the precursor to the modern shirts commonly worn in Western nations.
* bridal pantyhose (also called tights) are sheer, close fitting coverings of the body from the waist to the feet, most frequently worn by women. Like stockings they are usually made of nylon. The one-piece pantyhose garment appeared in the 1960s and provided a convenient alternative to stockings (nylons).
* bridal garters are items of clothing, used to keep stockings up. Normally just a few inches in width, they are usually made of leather or heavy cloth, and adorned with small bells and/or ribbons. In the 18th to 20th centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg was skinniest, to keep the stocking from slipping. The advent of elastic has made them unnecessary from this functional standpoint, although they are still often worn for fashion.
* bridal girdle originally meant a belt (or metaphorically speaking, something which confines or encloses, as in Tolkien's Girdle of Melian). In modern English the term "girdle" is most commonly used for a form of women's foundation wear that replaced the corset in popularity.
* bridal halter top is a kind of woman's top, secured behind the neck and across the back, leaving the arms, shoulders, upperback, and often the midriff bare.
* bridal knickers is a word for women's undergarments and there are now many names for the undergarments that previously have been called knickers, such as panties, thongs, g-strings, briefs, shorts, tangas, etc. Note that while the term 'knickers' refers almost exclusively to women's underwear, 'knicks', knick-knacks' and similar more masculine variations are acceptable monikers for men's underwear, particularly for young boys.
* bridal g-string (alternatively gee-string or gee string) is a type of thong, a narrow piece of cloth, leather, or plastic that covers or holds the genitals, passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a band around the hips, worn as swimwear or underwear by both men and women.
* bridal nightwear, also called "sleepwear", "nightclothes", or "nightdress", is clothing designed to be worn while sleeping. Nightwear usage is seasonal, i.e. different weights for different seasons or it is only worn in winter.
* bridal basque is an item of women's historical apparel. The term, of French origin, can mean either a long corset or jacket characterised by a close, contoured fit and extending past the waistline over the hips. In Victorian outerwear, basque refers to a closely fitted jacket extending at the back past the waistline over the hips, to be worn over a bustle. In 20th century and contemporary attire, the term is used to refer to an article of lingerie, particularly a torso-hugging camisole that resembles a basque or corset (typically featuring decorative front or back lace-up detail), but of more delicate construction and offering little or no figure-molding compression.
* bridal corsetry is craft of making corsets and corset-like garments and accessories most of which incorporate stays. It is also a subfield of fashion that deals with those garments and accessories and it is common term used for those garments and accessories. Term derives from the word corset. A special type of tailor who is an expert in corsetry is called corsetmaker.
* bridal sleepwear is a kind of clothes, such as pajamas or a nightgown, worn in bed. Also called nightdress, nightwear, sleepwear
* bridal briefs are a type of short, tight Y-shaped underwear and swimwear, as opposed to styles where the material extends down the legs. In the case of men's underwear, briefs, unlike boxer shorts, hold the wearer's genitals in a relatively fixed position, which makes briefs a popular underwear choice for men who are participating in athletic activities or who feel they need more support than loose-fitting underwear can provide. In addition, boxers often ride up the body when the wearer is running.
* bridal bikini a very brief, close-fitting, two-piece bathing suit for women or girls. Often, bikinis. underwear briefs that are fitted low on the hip or below it.
* bridal thong is a strip of material, esp. of leather or hide, used to fasten or secure something. Thong is also refered a shoe or slipper fastened to the foot chiefly by a strip of leather or other material passing between the first and second toes and often attaching to another strip of material, as a strap across the instep or around the ankle. The thong is a brief garment for the lower body that exposes the buttocks, consisting of a strip of fabric passing between the thighs and attached to a band around the waist.
Undergarment
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"Underwear" redirects here. For other uses, see Underwear (disambiguation).
For the types and styles of women's undergarments, see lingerie.
Undergarments, also called "underwear", "underpants," "lingerie", or "panties"
(undergarments for women), or sometimes "intimate clothing", and "pants" or
"knickers", are clothes worn next to the skin, usually under other clothes. They
are also known as 'Katch' or 'Katchie' and worn under Indian traditional
clothing.
Contents
1 Uses
2 History
2.1 Ancient history
2.2 Middle Ages and Renaissance
2.2.1 Male undergarments
2.2.2 Female undergarments
2.3 Enlightenment and Industrial Age
2.4 1900s
2.5 1910s
2.6 1920s
2.7 1930s
2.8 1940s
2.9 1950s and 1960s
2.10 1970s till the present day
2.11 Men's underwear, 1990s to the present
3 Religious significance
4 Underwear styles and function
5 Not wearing undergarments
6 Underwear exposed above trousers and not wearing it
7 Designers / retailers of underwear
8 See also
9 References
10 Further reading
11 External links
Uses
A man wearing a Japanese traditional fundoshi—specifically a red rokushaku.Some
clothing is specifically underwear, while some is also used as swimsuits (if
made of suitable material), and both T-shirts and some shorts are suitable as
underwear as well as outer clothing. Suitability as outer clothing is, apart
from outdoor or indoor climate, largely a social and sometimes even a legal
matter. One of the criteria for shorts not to be suitable as outer clothing may
be that it has a fly that avoids exposure of the genitals just by an overlap of
cloth, without buttons etc.[citation needed]
In the English Regency times this garment, basic for both men and women, was
straight cut, usually knee length, and had the elbow length sleeves set straight
into the shoulders.
The two major types of men's underpants are boxer shorts (shorts-length and
loose; also known as "boxers") and briefs (smaller and tighter), which are also
referred to as Y-fronts in British English.
In addition to keeping outer garments from soiling, undergarments are worn for a
variety of reasons: warmth, comfort and hygiene being the most common.
Undergarments are often used for modesty or erotic display; sometimes both of
these motivations are simultaneously present.
History
Ancient history
Roman female underwear from a mosaic at the Piazza Armerina, Sicily.The
loincloth is the simplest form of underwear; it was probably the first
undergarment worn by human beings. A loincloth may take three major forms. The
first, and simplest, is simply a long strip of material which is passed between
the legs and then around the waist. The ancient Hawaiian malo was of this form,
as are several styles of the Japanese fundoshi. Another form is usually called a
cache-sexe: a triangle of cloth is provided with strings or loops, which are
used to fasten the triangle between the legs and over the genitals. The
alternate form is more skirt-like: a cloth is wrapped around the hips several
times and then fastened with a girdle.
In warmer climates, the loincloth may be the only clothing worn (making it
effectively not an undergarment), as was doubtlessly its origin, but in colder
temperatures, the loincloth often forms the basis of a person's clothing and is
covered by other garments. In most ancient civilizations, this was the only
undergarment available (King Tutankhamun was buried with 145 of them).
Men are said to have worn loincloths in ancient Greece and Rome, though it is
unclear whether Greek women wore undergarments. Mosaics of the Roman period
indicate Roman women (primarily in an athletic context, whilst wearing nothing
else) sometimes wore wrapped breastcloths or brassieres made of soft leather,
along with loincloths and possibly something like panties.
Any cloth used may have been wool, linen or linsey-woolsey blend. Only the upper
classes could have afforded imported silk.
The loincloth continues to be worn by people around the world (it is the
traditional form of undergarment in many Asian societies, for example). In
various, mainly tropical, cultures, the traditional male dress may still
prescribe only a single garment below the waist or even none at all, with
underwear as optional, including the Far eastern Dhoti and Lungi or the Scottish
kilt.
Middle Ages and Renaissance
Male undergarments
Medieval braiesIn the Middle Ages, western men's underwear became looser
fitting. The loincloth was replaced by loose, trouser-like clothing called
braies, which the wearer stepped into and then laced or tied around the waist
and legs at about mid-calf. Wealthier men often wore chausses as well, which
only covered the legs.
By the Renaissance, the chausses became form-fitting like modern Hose, and the
braies became shorter to accommodate longer styles of chausses. However,
chausses and many braies designs were not intended to be covered up by other
clothing, so they are not actually underwear in the strictest sense.
Charles V: 1530s codpiece.Braies were usually fitted with a flap in the front
that buttoned or tied closed. This codpiece allowed men to urinate without
having to remove the braies completely. Henry VIII of England began padding his
own codpiece, which caused a spiraling trend of larger and larger codpieces that
only ended by the end of the 16th century. There are two possible explanations
for Henry VIII's codpiece becoming larger and larger. It is speculated that he,
along with many others in this time period, may have had the venereal disease
syphilis. The large codpiece may have included a bandage soaked in medication to
relieve the symptoms. It would then be wrapped again to protect the outer
clothing. Henry VIII also wanted a healthy son and may have thought that
projecting himself in this way would portray fertility.
The modern men's shirt appeared during this era, but it was originally an
undergarment. Men would wear this long shirt under their other clothing and pull
the long piece up from the back and then put their braies on over the shirt. In
this way the shirt acted as underwear. Renaissance noblemen also adopted the
doublet, a vest-like garment tied together in the front and worn under other
clothing.
Female undergarments
This lady wears an informal linen jacket over her rose-pink pair of bodies
(corset), smock, and elaborate petticoat, c. 1600Medieval women usually wore a
close-fitting garment called a chemise in France or a smock in England
(occasionally a shift), sometimes coupled with braies-like leg wrappings.
They may have worn petticoats over the shift and under the dress. Quilted
petticoats could be worn during the winter. Elaborately-quilted petticoats might
be displayed by a cut-away dress, in which case they became a skirt rather than
an undergarment.
During the 16th century, the farthingale was popular. This was a petticoat
stiffened with reed or willow rods so that it stood out from a woman's body,
like a cone extending from the waist.
Corsets also began to be worn about this time. At first they were called pair of
bodies, which may refer both to a stiffened bodice designed to be seen, and a
bodice stiffened with buckram, reeds, canes, whalebone etc., worn underneath
another, decorative, bodice. These were not the small-waisted, curvy corsets
familiar from the Victorian period, but straight-lined corsets that flattened
the bust.
There is a myth that Crusaders worried about the fidelity of their wives and
forced them to wear chastity belts. There is no reference, image, or surviving
belt to support this story. In fact most historians of this period are of the
view that chastity belts were worn to prevent sexual assault and that the woman
kept the key.
Enlightenment and Industrial Age
"Tight Lacing, or Fashion Before Ease", a satirical drawing of the early
1770sThe inventions of the spinning jenny machines and the cotton gin in the
second half of the 18th century made cotton fabrics widely available. This
allowed factories to mass-produce underwear, and for the first time, people
began buying undergarments in stores rather than making them at home.
Women's stays of the 18th century were laced behind and drew the shoulders back
to form a high, round bosom and erect posture. With the relaxed country styles
of the end of the century, stays became shorter and were unboned or only lightly
boned, and were now called corsets. Undue binding of a corset sometimes led to a
woman needing to retire to the fainting room. Colored stays were fashionable.
'health corsets' in 1883As tight waists became fashionable in the 1820s, the
corset was again boned and laced to form the figure. By the 1860s, a tiny
('wasp') waist came to be seen as a symbol of beauty, and the corsets were
stiffened with whalebone or steel to accomplish this. By the 1880s, the dress
reform movement was campaigning against the pain and damage to internal organs
and bones caused by tight lacing. Inez Gaches-Sarraute invented the Health
corset, with a straight-fronted bust made to help support the muscles of the
wearer.
The corset was usually worn over a thin shirt-like garment of cotton or muslin
called a shift. Shift In the latter half of the 19th century, long drawers,
called pantalettes or pantaloons, often accompanied the shift to keep the legs
out of sight as skirts styles got shorter.
As skirts became fuller from the 1830s, women wore a profusion of petticoats to
achieve the fashionable bell shape. By the 1850s, stiffened crinolines and later
hoop skirts allowed ever wider skirts to be worn.
The bustle, a frame or pad worn over the buttocks to enhance their shape, had
been used off and on by women for two centuries, but it reached the height of
its popularity the later 1880s, and went out of fashion for good in the 1890s.
union suitThe standard undergarment of the late 19th century for men, women and
children was the union suit, which provided coverage from the wrists to the
ankles (this "second skin" style is more commonly known as long johns today).
The union suits of the era were usually made of knitted material and included a
drop flap in the back to ease visits to the toilet. Drawers for women were not
generally worn until the mid-nineteenth century when the adoption of crinolines
made them necessary for reasons of modesty and warmth.
The jockstrap was invented in 1874 by C. F. Bennett of a Chicago sporting goods
company, Sharp & Smith, to provide comfort and support for bicycle jockeys
riding the cobblestone streets of Boston. In 1897 Bennett's newly-formed Bike
Web Company patented and began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap[1].
1900s
Modern jockstrapBy the early 20th century, the mass-produced undergarment
industry was booming, and competition forced producers to come up with all sorts
of innovative and gimmicky designs to compete. The Hanes company emerged from
this boom and quickly established itself as a top manufacturer of union suits.
Textile technology continued to improve, and the time to make a single union
suit dropped from days to minutes.
Meanwhile, designers of women's undergarments relaxed the corset. The invention
of new, flexible but supportive materials allowed them to remove the whalebone
and steel while still providing support. The emancipation or liberty bodice
offered an alternative to constricting corsets, and in Australia and the United
Kingdom, the liberty bodice became a standard item, for girls as well as women.
1910s
Ladies' underwear advertisement, 1913The increase in the number of underwear
manufacturers necessitated the birth of undergarment advertising. The first
underwear print advertisement in the United States ran in the Saturday Evening
Post in 1911 and featured oil paintings by J.C. Leyendecker of the "Kenosha
Klosed Krotch". Early underwear advertisements placed emphasis on durability and
comfort; fashion was never a selling point.
By the end of the 1910s, Chalmers Knitting Company split the union suit into
upper and lower sections, effectively inventing the modern undershirt and
drawers. Women wore lacier versions of this basic duo known as the camisole and
drawers.
In 1913, a New York socialite named Mary Phelps Jacob changed women's fashion
forever when she cobbled the first brassiere together by tying two handkerchiefs
together with ribbon. Jacob's original intention was to cover the whalebone
sticking out of her corset, which was visible through her sheer dress. Jacob
began making brassieres for her family and friends, and word of mouth soon
spread about the garment. By 1914, Jacob had a patent for her design and was
marketing it throughout the United States. Although women had worn
brassiere-like garments years past, Jacob's was the first to be successfully
marketed and widely adopted.
In 1912, the United States had its first professional underwear designer.
Lindsay "Layneau" Boudreaux, an immigrant from France established the short
lived panty company "Layneau". Though her company closed within one year, it had
a significant impact on many levels. Boudreaux showed the world that an American
woman could establish and run a company, and she also caused a revolution in the
underwear industry. Boudreaux is possibly the reason why up-scale underwear and
panty stores exist today.
By the end of the decade, trouser-like "bloomers" (popularized by Amelia Jenks
Bloomer 1818-1894 but invented by Elizabeth Smith Miller) gained popularity with
the so-called Gibson girls who enjoyed more athletic pursuits such as bicycling
and tennis. This new female athleticism helped push the corset out of style, as
well. The other major factor in the corset's demise was the fact that metal was
in short supply in much of the world during World War I. Steel-laced corsets
were dropped in favor of the brassiere.
Meanwhile, the soldiers of World War I were issued button-front shorts as
underwear. The buttons attached to a separate piece of cloth, or yoke, sewn to
the front of the garment, and tightness of fit was adjusted by means of ties on
the sides. This design proved so popular that it began to supplant the union
suit in popularity by the end of the war. Garments of rayon also became widely
available in the post-war period.
1920s
corset over "step ins" and camisole,1922.In the 1920s, manufacturers shifted
emphasis from durability to comfort. Union suit ads raved about "patented" new
designs that reduced the number of buttons and increased accessibility. Most of
these experimental designs had to do with new ways to hold closed the crotch
flap common on most union suits and drawers. A new woven cotton fabric called
nainsook gained popularity in the 1920s for its durability. Retailers also began
selling preshrunk undergarments.
Women's bloomers became much shorter and stockings covered the legs instead. The
shorter bloomers became looser and less supportive as the boyish flapper look
came into fashion. By the end of the decade, they came to be known as step-ins,
very much like modern panties but with wider legs, worn for the increased
flexibility they afforded.
As dancing became a favorite pastime of young flappers, the garter belt was
invented to keep stockings from falling. Nevertheless, the increased sexuality
of the flapper also made underwear sexier than ever before. It was the flappers
who ushered in the era of lingerie.
A Russian immigrant named Ida Rosenthal further developed the brassiere in this
decade when she introduced modern cup sizes in 1928 for her company, Maidenform.
1930s
A man wearing a pair of boxer shortsMeanwhile, other modern men's underwear was
largely an invention of the 1930s. On January 19, 1935, Coopers Inc. sold the
world's first briefs in Chicago. The company placed a Y-shaped front and
overlapping fly on knitted drawers in both short and long styles. They dubbed
the design the "jockey" since it offered a degree of support that had previously
only been available from the jockstrap (the company itself would later adopt the
name Jockey, as well). Jockey briefs proved so popular that over 30,000 pairs
were sold within three months of their introduction.
Companies began selling buttonless drawers fitted with an elastic waistband, the
first true boxer shorts (named for their resemblance to the shorts worn by
professional fighters). Scovil Manufacturing also introduced the snap fastener
at this time, which became a popular addition to various kinds of undergarments.
Women of this decade brought the corset back, now called the girdle. The garment
lacked the whalebone and metal supports and usually came with a brassiere (now
usually called a bra) and often garters attached.
1940s
During World War II, elastic waistbands and metal snaps gave way once again to
button fasteners due to rubber and metal shortages. Undergarments were harder to
find, as well, since soldiers abroad had priority to get them.
At war's end, Jockey and Hanes remained the industry leader in the United
States, but Cluett, Peabody and Company would make a name for itself when it
introduced a preshrinking process called Sanforization, which came to be
licensed by most major manufacturers.
Meanwhile, some women readopted the corset once again, now called the waspie for
the wasp-shaped waistline it gave the wearer. Many women began wearing the
strapless bra, as well, which gained popularity for its ability to push the
breasts up and enhance cleavage.
1950s and 1960s
Corselette of 1953In the 1950s, underwear manufacturers began marketing printed
and colored garments. What had once been a simple, white piece of clothing not
to be shown in public suddenly became a fashion statement. The manufacturers
also experimented with rayon and newer fabrics like dacron and nylon. By 1960,
men's underwear was regularly printed in loud patterns or with images ranging
from messages to cartoon characters.
Women's undergarments began to emphasize the breasts instead of the waist in the
1950s. The decade saw the introduction of the bullet bra, which featured pointed
cups. The original Wonderbra and Fredericks of Hollywood's push-up bra finally
hit it big in this decade as well. Meanwhile, women's panties had become even
more colorful and decorative, and by the mid-Sixties were also available in two
smaller, more abbreviated styles called the hip-hugger and the bikini (after the
island of that name), frequently in sheer nylon fabric.
Pantyhose, also called "tights" in British English, which combined panties and
hose into one garment, made their first appearance in 1959, invented by Glen
Raven Mills of North Carolina. The company later introduced seamless pantyhose
in 1965, spurred by the popularity of the miniskirt. By the end of this decade,
the girdle had fallen out of favor as women chose sexier and lighter
alternatives.[2]
1970s till the present day
Woman in camisole, garters and stockingsUnderwear as fashion matured in the
1970s and 1980s, and underwear advertisers forgot about comfort and durability,
at least in advertising. Sex appeal became the main selling point, in swimwear
as well, bringing to fruition a trend that had been building since at least the
flapper era (underwear is the last barrier before nudity, and thus it acts as a
sort of gatekeeper to sex).
Tank tops, an undershirt type named after the Tank suit swimwear which dates
from the 1920s, have been popular warm-weather casual wear in the United States
since the 1980s and are regarded as acceptable public casual dress in most
locales there.
Performers in the 1980s such as Madonna and Cyndi Lauper also got into the act,
often wearing undergarments on top of other clothes. Later, in the 1990s, hip
hop stars would popularize a similar style, known as the Sag, which allowed
loosely fitting blue jeans or shorts to droop low, exposing the underwear. In
fact, in the case of Mark Wahlberg, it was his success as underwear model for
Calvin Klein (with his chiseled muscularity on full display in a series of
advertisements in the early 1990s) that allowed him a double launch to showbiz
fame as both a white hip hop star and a respectable Hollywood actor.
Man wearing popular Bond's brand "tighty-whiteys"Although it was worn for
decades by exotic dancers, the g-string first gained popularity in South
America, particularly in Brazil, in the 1980s. It was originally a style of
swimsuit made so that the back of the suit is so thin that it disappears between
the buttocks. By the 1990s, the design had made its way to most of the Western
World, and thong underwear became popular. Today, thong underwear is one of the
fastest selling styles available among women and is even gaining some popularity
among men.
In the 1990s, retailers started selling boxer briefs, which take the longer
shape of boxers but maintain the tightness of briefs. Though marketed as a new
design, these are actually quite similar to the bottom half of the two-part
union suits worn in the 1910s. In 2006, fashion gurus Trinny Woodall and
Susannah Constantine released a new style of underwear, which are made of Nylon
and designed to flatten the tummy or buttocks so that the areas appear slimmer,
therefore acting as both underwear and a slimming mechanism.[3]
Underwear and brassieres are a common sex symbol in culture today and modeling
such as fashion shows
Men's underwear, 1990s to the present
Men's underwear styles in the present day have seen a dramatic shift in style
when compared to the evolution of female styles in underwear. While women's
underwear continued to emphasize feminine sexuality, around the late 1980s and
early 1990s; particularly in the United States, men's underwear styles began to
deemphasize sexuality, in favor of baggier and looser styles. This trend also
became evident in swimwear, which grew longer and looser in this period as well
as all other fashions which also became consciously baggier and less form
fitting. Despite this exodus from extremely revealing undergarments, tighter
fitting underwear still remains popular.
Religious significance
Mormon Temple garments (two-piece style)
The tzitzis strings of one corner of a tallit. Note how the eight strings are
really four that are folded through the hole on the tallit.Undergarments can
also have religious significance. For example:
Some members of the The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints wear special
undergarments after they have been endowed in a temple to help them remember the
teachings of the temple.[4]
Many Jews wear a four-cornered garment called a tallit katan, with tzitzit
(fringes) attached at the corners[5].
Some Hindus wear a sacred thread, called the Yajñopavītam, underneath their
clothing.
One of the five articles of the Sikh faith is underwear called kaccha.
Underwear styles and function
Traditional BriefToday, there are many options in underwear available. These
include
boxer style (at or near true waist, leg sections extending to thighs)
woven boxer (traditional)
knit boxer (like traditional but with more fabric give)
boxer brief (also knit; more form-fitting)
pouch boxer brief (boxer briefs but with pouch for genitals rather than access
flap)
athletic-style (skin-tight, usually with no access pouch or flap; like short
tights; a variation are cycling shorts
retro style (boxer shorts in a brief style)
brief style (knit fabric, with access pouch or flap; usually at or near true
waist, leg bands at tops of thighs
traditional brief (vertical flap)
double seat brief or double back brief
diagonal flap brief
pouch brief
low-cut/low-rise brief
bikini brief (usually lower than true waist, often at hips, usually no access
pouch or flap, legs bands at tops of thighs)
high-side bikini brief
low-side bikini brief
string bikini brief (the front and rear sections meet in the crotch with a
shoestring-like thread at the top, with no fabric on the side of the legs)
g-string type (with a front pouch for the genitals but no rear coverage)
thong (with a strap securing the pouch at the bottom rear, passing up the crack
between the buttocks to the waistband)
athletic supporters, also known as jockstraps (with two straps securing the
pouch at the bottom rear, passing through the perineum, around the bases of the
buttocks up to the waistband at the sides) and dance belt
strapless pouches (with a front pouch and waistband only, no securing straps)
Man in boxer briefs (trunks style)
Women's panties or knickersThere are also many types of long underwear, union
suits, and other variations of men's underwear. Some underpants also have a fly.
These usually do not allow detachment at the waist; elasticity allows them to be
taken on and off. Usually the fly of underpants avoids exposure of the skin just
by an overlap of cloth, without buttons, etc. Such a property may be one of the
criteria for boxer shorts not to be suitable as outer clothing.
Today, there are many specialized types of underwear made for sexual purposes,
such as edible underwear or crotchless panties. Most of these are meant simply
to display the body or genitals in certain ways, while some are intended to
provide genital stimulation as well. Frederick's of Hollywood is an example of a
business centered around manufacturing and selling such underwear.
Not wearing undergarments
Main article: Going commando
Not wearing undergarments under one's outer clothing is also known in American
slang as freeballing for men or freebuffing for females; the terms going
commando and going bareback are also used for both sexes.[6] Finding female
celebrities who are not wearing underwear and taking upskirt pictures of them is
quite a common action undertaken by the paparazzi as the right picture of the
right woman can earn them a lot of money.
This trend shows that a few consider underwear unnecessary for hygiene,
especially for modern people who bathe every day.
In situations where a certain amount of body coverage is required (legally or
socially), people who prefer to go clothes free might enjoy not wearing
undergarments, as that is the closest they can get to nudity. For others, there
may be sexual motives; undergarments are the final physical barrier to sex, and
not wearing them might be arousing.
Cycling shorts and swimwear such as board shorts are usually worn without
underwear. Often the same applies for a kilt.
Glossary
* hot lingerie is the kind of underwear, sleepwear, and other items of intimate apparel worn by women
* hot costume is a style of dress, including accessories and hairdos, esp. that peculiar to a nation, region, group, or historical period.
* hot underwear is a kind of clothing worn next to the skin under outer clothes.
* hot pajama is a loose-fitting garment consisting of trousers and a jacket, worn for sleeping or lounging.
* hot boxer or boxer shorts, men's loose-fitting undershorts with an elastic waistband.
* hot babydoll, often, baby dolls. Also called baby doll nightgown
* hot corset, sometimes, corsets, a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, esp. by women, to shape and support the body.
* hot catsuit is a tight-fitting one-piece garment for women usually made of leather or a synthetic fabric such as spandex and covering the torso, legs, and sometimes the arms.
* hot bodysuit, or body, is a leotard-like garment that may or may not have snaps at the crotch.
* hot bodystocking is an article of lingerie, similar to a leotard or a catsuit.
* hot funwear is a kind of wear, clothing, or costume for fun or games.
* hot hosiery describes tight-fitting garments worn directly on the feet and legs.
* hot bra ( brassiere) is an article of clothing that covers, supports, and elevates the breasts.
* hot panty is a kind of short underpants for women or children (usually used in the plural)
* hot clubwear is a kind of fashion design, primarily in ready-to-wear lines, boyfriend is any style for women's clothing that was modified from a corresponding men's garment.
* hot bustier (alternately bustier re) is an article of clothing for women, which is form-fitting and is traditionally worn as lingerie.
* hot robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. A robe is distinguished from a cape or cloak by the fact that it usually has sleeves.
* hot gown is a loose outer garment from knee- to full-length worn by men and women and gown was applied to any woman's garment consisting of a bodice and attached skirt.
* hot teddy is a form of bodysuit-like lingerie, often worn in the boudoir.
* hot teddiettes is a loose-fitting teddy designed as sleepwear. Sleep teddies tend to use simpler materials and styles than teddies designed for visual appeal.
* hot chemise can refer to the classic smock or shift, or else can refer to certain modern types of women's undergarments and dresses.
* hot pantyhose (also called tights) are sheer, close fitting coverings of the body from the waist to the feet, most frequently worn by women.
* hot garters are items of clothing, used to keep stockings up.
* hot girdle originally meant a belt (or metaphorically speaking, something which confines or encloses, as in Tolkien's Girdle of Melian).
* hot halter top is a kind of woman's top, secured behind the neck and across the back, leaving the arms, shoulders, upperback, and often the midriff bare.
* hot knickers is a word for women's undergarments and there are now many names for the undergarments that previously have been called knickers, such as panties, thongs, g-strings, briefs, shorts, tangas, etc.
* hot g-string (alternatively gee-string or gee string) is a type of thong, a narrow piece of cloth, leather, or plastic that covers or holds the genitals, passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a band around the hips, worn as swimwear or underwear by
* hot nightwear, also called "sleepwear", "nightclothes", or "nightdress", is clothing designed to be worn while sleeping. Nightwear usage is seasonal, i.e. different weights for different seasons or it is only worn in winter.
* hot basque is an item of women's historical apparel.
* hot corsetry is craft of making corsets and corset-like garments and accessories most of which incorporate stays.
* hot sleepwear is a kind of clothes, such as pajamas or a nightgown, worn in bed. Also called nightdress, nightwear, sleepwear
* hot briefs are a type of short, tight Y-shaped underwear and swimwear, as opposed to styles where the material extends down the legs.
* hot bikini a very brief, close-fitting, two-piece bathing suit for women or girls.
* hot thong is a strip of material, esp. of leather or hide, used to fasten or secure something.